Your Philodendron’s leaves are likely turning white because your soil lacks the nutrients necessary for healthy growth and pigmentation. They could also be whitening as a result of improper lighting, cool temperatures, or fungal infections.

Diagnosing a plant’s condition can be challenging since there are often many potential causes of them. In this article, I’ll explain the various possible reasons for white Philodendron leaves and how to help your plant regain its unique colors.

Four Environmental Reasons for White Philodendron Leaves

So you’ve noticed your Philodendron leaves are starting to turn white. The first thing to look at when diagnosing the problem is the plant’s environment– specifically, its soil, lighting, watering, and temperature.

The Soil Lacks Nutrients

A nutrient deficiency is the number one cause of white leaves on a Philodendron plant. Plants get their nutrients from soil rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In fact, these elements contribute to the plant’s chlorophyll, so discoloration is a surefire sign that the soil is lacking.

Nitrogen, for example, helps the plant grow vibrant, full foliage, while phosphorus aids the development of the plant’s root system. Potassium, on the other hand, allows the plant to produce fruits and flowers. So, a nutrient deficiency can cause many unwanted problems to your Philodendron, including white leaves.

If your plant is a few years old, it’s natural for the soil to have dried out over time. After all, it can only contain so many nutrients. Before you repot your Philodendron, though, consider the other potential symptoms of nutrient-deficient soil:

• Compact soil that can keep the shape of its container if you remove it
• Stunted growth, less flowering
• Slow leaf unfurling
• Yellow, discolored leaves
• White leaves that are papery and soft to touch

If your Philodendron has more than two symptoms (but most importantly, the compacted soil), it may need to be repotted in fresh, nutrient-rich soil.

When purchasing a potting mix for your Philodendron, keep your eyes peeled for a few key ingredients: all of the nutrients I named above and soil with an acidity level between 6 and 7. They also grow well in organic matter like peat moss.

Fertilizer contains many much-needed nutrients that plants benefit from, so adding fertilizer to new soil will do wonders for your Philodendron.

Too Little Lighting

Philodendrons like shaded, indirect sunlight. Without it, they will wilt, lose color over time, and eventually die. White leaves can result from a Philodendron not getting the light it needs, even filtered.

I remember when I first began my journey as a Philodendron owner. For the life of me, I couldn’t figure out how to determine whether my plant was getting enough light, direct or indirect. It wasn’t until a friend and landscaper told me to remember the cardinal directions to make this determination.

East, West, and South-facing windows will provide the most sunlight throughout the duration of the day. Since the sun rises in the east, east-facing plants will receive a good amount of soft morning sunlight. On the other hand, west-facing plants will soak up the afternoon light and its last rays before sun-down.

South-facing plants will get a ton of light all day long, so they should thrive in the constant sun. In contrast, north-facing plants should be highly shade-tolerant, as they likely won’t get much sun at all from sun-up to sun-down.

With all of that being said, Philodendrons do best in East or West-facing windows, away from the direct, intense rays of the sun. If your plant is in a South or North-facing window, consider moving the plant to a different location in the house.

Additionally, your Philodendron shouldn’t be exposed to direct sunlight in east or west-facing windows, as this can burn the leaves.

Too Little Water

Naturally, too little water will cause discoloration of your Philodendron leaves. Overwatering also causes discoloration, but you’ll notice the stem and leaves turning black instead of white, so examine your watering schedule to see where it needs adjusting.

Philodendron plants thrive off of one thorough soak a week, with the soil drying out almost entirely before its next watering. If you’re soaking your plant less than once a week (once every week and a half, once every two weeks), you may not be giving it enough water to develop strong roots.

Other symptoms of your Philodendron needing more water include:

• Hard, crinkly leaves
• Dehydrated soil
• Stunted growth

An excellent way to check whether your plant requires water is by sticking your index finger at least one inch (two knuckles deep) into the soil. If that one inch is dry, the plant needs a drink.

You can also use the XLux Soil Moisture Sensor Meter (available on Amazon.com) to check the moisture levels of your soil. (I got one for Christmas last year and use it constantly!)

Over time, the soil will get drier and drier between waterings as the plant absorbs its moisture and nutrients. Again, compacted soil is a sign of dry soil that may need to be replaced.

Temperature

Philodendrons grow best in relatively warm climates, so if the weather is getting cold outside or you like to keep your air conditioner on blast, you’ll need to find a way to warm up your plant to prevent further whitening of the leaves.

Don’t worry– you have a few options. First, consider moving your Philodendron indoors if it’s currently growing outdoors. To do this, you’ll have to find a suitably sized container, dig up the plant’s root ball, and repot it in fresh soil. The colder your plant gets, the more likely it is that the leaves will whiten and die.

Second, consider heat and grow lamps to give your Philodendron the extra light and warmth it may need to thrive. I often recommend the Bifrost LED Grow Light for Indoor Plants (available on Amazon.com) because it has adjustable arms and a long shelf life, suitable for any size plant.

They’re an excellent solution for basement apartments and north-facing homes, where dark lighting conditions are dominant.

Third, figure out the hardiness zone of the area you live in. Philodendrons grow best in zones nine to ten; these zones have temperatures between 20 and 40 °F (-6 to 4 °C). Many of the warmer states in America are excellent locations for natural Philodendron. This plant species is commonly found in states like New Mexico, Hawaii, and Texas.

Fungal Infection: Powdery Mildew

Another common reason for your Philodendron’s leaves turning white is a fungal infection– more specifically, powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew is a fungus that forms on a wide variety of plant surfaces. You’ll first notice it as what might resemble white polka dots that grow in size and eventually consume the leaf’s entire surface.

The polka dots will be fuzzy and won’t have defined borders. Carried on the wind, powdery mildew will significantly stunt your Philodendron’s growth if left untreated.

To treat powdery mildew, treat the entire plant with a fungicide. Numerous brands are available at most local nurseries or garden stores. When dealing with any infestation or plant infection, following a couple of steps is essential during treatment.

• Isolate your Philodendron. Powdery mildew can travel from one plant to another on the wind, so isolating your Philodendron is crucial to protect your other plant babies.
• Prune the diseased leaves. While more important for root disease, pruning the infected leaves on your Philodendron is another important step to preventing contamination or persistent infection. Use sterilized scissors that get wiped between each use.
• Treat your plant with a fungicide. Just like there are insecticides for insect infestations, you can purchase a general fungicide spray at any local gardening store. You should thoroughly spray your Philodendron with fungicide and wipe it down as well. Treatment usually lasts one to two weeks.
• Examine your other plants. If you notice powdery mildew on any of your other plants, you can isolate them with your Philodendron. Many people opt to keep isolated plants in one location, like the bathtub or on a closed-in porch.
• Repot the Philodendron in fresh soil. Powdery mildew can also grow on your plant’s soil, so repotting it with fresh soil is the most efficient way to rid your Philodendron of this fungal infection.

Conclusion

To summarize, white Philodendron leaves can happen because of infections or inadequate environmental conditions. Fungal infections like powdery mildew can turn your entire plant white if you don’t treat it; nutrient, water, and sun deficiencies are other common culprits to leaf discoloration.

In particular, Philodendrons thrive off of different nutrients found in soil, so repotting it in new soil will provide the plant with the food it needs. These tips should ensure you and your Philodendron are back on track and thriving.

You may also like:

• Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Turning Black?
• Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Drooping?
• Propagating Philodendron in Water
• Philodendron Leaves Turning Yellow

Sophia

Hi! I’m Sophia, and I love plants – especially an expert in growing house plants. I stay in Chicago, United States of America, and through my blog and social media platforms, provide tips and tricks on how to grow healthy, vibrant plants indoors. Check out more here.

The post Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Turning White [How to Fix] appeared first on HousePlantsInfo.com.

Your Philodendron leaves are probably turning black because of an infection called “leaf spot”, which can quickly kill the plant.  Black leaves usually signify health-related problems, while brown, yellow, and white leaves point to an issue in the philodendron’s environment.

In other words, if your philodendron’s leaves are blackening, death is most likely occurring within the root system. If they’re lightning, the phenomenon is most likely related to soil or watering issues.

The remainder of this article will examine philodendron ailments to color, and what you can do to help your philodendron thrive.

Philodendron Genus

Native to Central America, Philodendrons can grow in warm, shady environments and can be found as close to North America as the Florida coast. Therefore, this plant grows best in an environment with shaded, indirect sunlight and moist soil.

The philodendron genus contains hundreds of different species, all incredibly unique. Some philodendrons are known for their bright green leaves, while others boast splashes of pink, red, and white. The actual leaves also vary in size and shape. Some are very wide; others are narrow and long.

Leaf Discoloration in Philodendron Leaves and What to Do About It

Despite the variety of colors on any philodendron plant, certain shades indicate illness.

Black Philodendron Leaves

For example, black leaves on a philodendron point to a bacterial infection in the plant’s root system called “leaf spot”. It presents as polka-dot type marks on the leaf that starts off brown. Gradually, the brown spots blacken, spread across the leaf’s surface, and kill the leaf before moving on to the next.

How to treat: since this infection can spread quickly, the best way to treat the plant is by removing the infected leaf. Use a clean, sharp pair of scissors to prune it at the base, ensuring that the plant isn’t close to others to avoid contagion.

Yellow to Brown Philodendron Leaves

Suppose your Philodendron transforms from yellow to brown or develops brown, wilted spots. In that case, you are likely overwatering it (or not watering it enough). Philodendrons are a tropical species growing in humid climates such as those of Hawaii, where moist (but not oversaturated) soil is expected; if the plant is overwatered, the roots will get soggy and turn brown, eventually rotting the whole leaf. This is called root rot.

How to treat: Similar to leaf spots, it’s essential to prune the plant of affected leaves. Another additional step is removing the plant and looking at the roots. Root rot will make the root ball a brown, mushy mess instead of its usual white system – prune away the infected roots before repotting the plant in fresh soil and adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

White Philodendron Leaves

If you notice your philodendron leaves turning white, there are a few possible causes. The plant could be missing essential nutrients that are found in healthy soil. Alternatively, overexposure to sunlight could give your Philodendron the plant equivalent of a sunburn.

Since these plants thrive in dappled sunlight, shaded along forest floors and tree trunks, too much sunlight can damage the leaf and turn it white, sometimes transparent. The white leaf will eventually dry up and turn brown if not removed to an area with indirect sunlight.

How to treat: If you catch sun damage early enough, moving your plant to a different location that receives light indirectly can help it regain its color. Ideally, you should relocate the plant as soon as you notice the philodendrons’ color fading.

However, there isn’t always treatment for a sunburnt leaf – if it can’t spring back, the plant will focus its energy on creating new growth.

Philodendron Growing Tips

While there are over four hundred philodendron species, there are a few general growing tips to help maintain your plant’s healthy look.

Providing Indirect Sunlight

This genus, as previously mentioned, grows best in tropical heat and is often shaded by bigger plants; this type of lighting is called indirect lighting. Therefore, be sure to place your plant in an area of your home that gets brightly lit during the day, but does not directly expose the plant to the sun’s rays, where it could burn.

Choosing the Right Soil

As with most other house plants, philodendrons cannot tolerate too wet or dry soil. Choose a pot with accessible drainage (like one with a drainage hole and a tray) to make sure the roots don’t rot in excess water.

You’ll also want to ensure not to water your Philodendron more than once a week while letting the soil dry up between waterings.

A good rule of thumb is to stick your finger one knuckle deep into the soil – if it comes out dry, the soil needs some hydration.

Another simple solution is to use a moisture meter. The meter is placed into the soil and will indicate the soil’s condition: either dry, moist, or wet. This tool comes in handy when first determining an appropriate plant watering schedule.

Philodendron soil should also be loose and nutrient-rich. Nitrogen and phosphorus are essential nutrients for this plant to grow large, healthy leaves.

Determining Whether Your Philodendron Is a Vine or Not

Another simple but helpful growing tip is to determine whether your Philodendron is a vine or not. Many species in this genus are, meaning they do best when they have something to climb on.

Before I started buying Feitore Stackable Plant Trellis (available on Amazon), my philodendron vines were reaching up towards my window’s curtain rod, hoping to curl around it. The stackable feature gives the vines lots of space to climb while keeping the plant away from the furniture.

If you don’t have a trellis, don’t sweat it. Some vines need to climb, otherwise, they’ll die. Philodendron vines, however, don’t need to climb, even though they’ll want to.

If they have nothing to climb on, these vines will simply grow down the sides of their container, which makes for great plants to hang from the ceiling. Hanging baskets or macrame hangers are perfect for a philodendron vine!

I especially like macrame hangers because they can accommodate many different sizes of pots or baskets, and are chic and modern alternatives to plastic baskets. If they’re durable enough, macrame hangers can even hold a pot with a drainage tray, which is excellent to prevent root rot.

Some other hanging options include hooks for the wall or ones that attach to the rim of your basket.

Pruning Your Philodendron

Pruning your plant isn’t only something to do when parts of it are diseased. Regularly pruning your philodendron will help stimulate leaf production and give the plant a bushier look.

When pruning, always make sure to use clean, sharp scissors; it’s good practice to disinfect your shears after each use. This is important because dull, dirty shears can damage the plant and encourage insect infestation.

Moreover, dirty shears carry bacteria that can potentially make your plants sick. If one of your plants is sick and its disease gets transferred to another plant through unclean tools, you may end up needing to play doctor for each one!

To summarize, the discoloration of your philodendron plant signifies a serious problem. The first step in treating it is assessing the sick plant and identifying what it needs. You can do this by remembering what ailment each color points to.

• Black: Black leaves usually suffer from a bacterial infection called leaf spot, which will eventually kill the plant if left untreated.
• Yellow or Brown: Yellow or brown leaves indicate a poor watering schedule. You may be watering your philodendron either too often or not enough.
• White: White leaves signify excess sunlight and are the plant’s equivalent to sunburn!

After you’ve evaluated your plant, assess its environment and watering schedule. Make adjustments as necessary. Philodendrons like bright, indirect sunlight, nutrient-rich soil, weekly waterings, pot drainage, and occasional pruning!

It’s essential to research any plant you bring home to make sure you’re helping it grow in the right environment. Philodendrons are easy to care for but will still die if neglected.

Owning the proper tools will help make caring for your plant easier. Some useful tools include climbers for philodendron vines, hanging baskets, and moisture meters to check the moisture level of your plant’s soil.

You may also want to invest in a good pair of gardening or pruning shears; remember, just as surgeons use sterilized tools, it’s best to prune your philodendron with sharp, clean shears.

Conclusion

Gaining experience with a new type of plant is both exciting and a little intimidating! With these tips in mind, caring for your philodendron – even when it’s sick – should help to ease your plant-growing journey, making it remarkably more fulfilling and smooth-running.

You may also like:

• Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Turning White?
• Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Falling off?
• Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Drooping?
• Split Leaf Philodendron Soil

Sophia

Hi! I’m Sophia, and I love plants – especially an expert in growing house plants. I stay in Chicago, United States of America, and through my blog and social media platforms, provide tips and tricks on how to grow healthy, vibrant plants indoors. Check out more here.

The post Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Turning Black? [Why & What to Do] appeared first on HousePlantsInfo.com.

Your philodendron leaves are falling off due to a number of reasons, such as improper watering, insufficient access to light, and pest infestation. Proper philodendron upkeep is crucial to keeping your philodendron in perfect shape.

In the rest of this article, I’ll discuss some of the most common causes of philodendron leaf loss and how to solve these problems so the leaves stay attached and healthy. Furthermore, I’ll provide some philodendron growing tips to ensure your beloved plant thrives and stays healthy.

How to Prevent Philodendron Leaf Loss

If your philodendron’s leaves are falling off, this is a sign that your plant is unhealthy and might probably die if you don’t take quick action. Philodendron leaves are typically bright and lush, so anything to the contrary is a warning sign.

Many factors contribute to the growth of a healthy philodendron, so there are many possible explanations for your leaf loss. Let’s take a look at a few causes of leaf loss and how to solve them.

1. Overwatering

Philodendrons are sensitive to overwatering, and they are more likely to die because of too much water than they are from underwatering. If the soil is too wet, the roots won’t have enough oxygen and will start to suffocate. This is detrimental to the entire plant, and the leaves will start to fall off as the plant begins to die. 

In addition to leaf loss, other signs of overwatering include:

• Brown spots on the leaves
• Mushy roots
• A rotting odor
• Soil that is wet and soggy

If you notice these conditions and think overwatering is the cause of your leaf loss, stop watering your plant immediately. You should also check the roots and remove any that are mushy and appear diseased.

Place your plant in a dry, aerated place. Your goal is to accelerate moisture loss, so you want to dry the soil out quickly. However, you should avoid placing your philodendron in direct sunlight as it can burn the leaves.

Philodendrons can grow year-round in the United States Department of Agriculture zones nine through eleven. However, they may struggle in more humid places, such as parts of Florida, Mississippi, or Louisiana, because the air will contribute to overwatering the plant. 

You should avoid watering your philodendron for a week after repotting. Then, water once a week through the spring and summer and once every three weeks in the winter. You should let the soil dry out between waterings; otherwise, you risk mushy roots and falling leaves.

2. Underwatering

To prevent leaf loss, you must be careful to avoid overwatering your philodendron. However, underwatering can also be another cause of leaf loss in your philodendron. If your plant doesn’t receive enough water, the leaves will start to turn dry, crispy, and wilted, eventually falling off. 

If you notice signs that your philodendron is dehydrated, you should soak it by placing it in three inches of room temperature water in your sink. Leave the plant in the water for approximately forty-five minutes and return it to its original spot or pot.

After soak-watering, you’re in danger of swinging the pendulum too far and harming your plant by overwatering. It would help if you waited to water again until the top two inches of the soil are completely dry or use a moisture meter and water when the soil is 50-75% dry.

My favorite moisture meter is the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon. This meter is reliable, accurate, and easy to read, thanks to the large and clear dial. There’s also only a single probe, which means you dig up less soil every time you measure the soil. Finally, it is suitable for both indoor and outdoor use. 

3. Not Enough Light

Philodendrons shouldn’t be put in direct sunlight because this could burn the leaves, but this doesn’t mean they don’t need light altogether. While philodendrons can survive in low-light environments, such conditions aren’t ideal for the optimum growth and health of the plants.

You should grow your philodendrons in medium light for the best results and sturdiest leaves.  

Soil doesn’t dry as quickly in low light conditions, which can then cause root rot and the loss of leaves. Additionally, like most plants, philodendrons need sunlight to perform photosynthesis, which contributes to the overall health and well-being of the plant.

Here are my tips for how to ensure your philodendron is getting the appropriate amount of light:

• If your philodendron is planted outside, plant it underneath a tree
• Pay attention to where the sun falls in your home at midday and in the afternoon, when the sun is at its strongest
• Keep your philodendron away from windows during the winter and on windy days

If you live in an area that doesn’t get a lot of light or you’re experiencing a dark winter, you should consider purchasing artificial lights to help promote growth.

I recommend the GooingTop LED Grow Light from Amazon.com because the red and white LEDs are similar to sunlight at noon, and the product was designed for indoor garden plants. There’s also a convenient timer setting, so you can program the light to turn on and off without having to do it yourself.   

4. Pests

Philodendrons are susceptible to attacks from various pests, including:

• Scales
• Spider mites
• Aphids
• Mealybugs

These pests interfere with the plant’s growth and often lead to serious health issues that can lead to plant death, especially if not contained early enough.

Pests thrive in damp environments, so to prevent pests, ensure that your soil is well-draining and that your plant is getting enough sunlight. Furthermore, check on any surrounding plants regularly, as pests can move amongst plants in a group and infest them all.

Some pests are visible, so you can hand-pick them as you see them. You can also wash your plant under running room-temperature water to get rid of them.

Another option is to use a pesticide. I like Wondercide Indoor Pest Control Spray from Amazon because not only does it repel pests, but it is also pet-safe. This product uses natural essential oils, so it is a safer and more natural alternative than other pesticides full of potentially harmful chemicals.      

Philodendron Growing Tips

Consistent and proper philodendron maintenance is one of the best ways to ensure that your plant’s leaves stay healthy, sturdy, and attached to the stem. Here are some of my best recommendations for how to care for your philodendron:

• Plant philodendrons with drainage holes. I like this Self Watering Plant Pot from Amazon because the legs of the plant allow the soil to draw moisture and keep the plant lifted above the water, which prevents overwatering. The pots also come with a clip-on watering attachment that makes watering easier.
• Prune regularly. Pruning helps encourage growth, so cut away all dead leaves consistently.
• Use well-draining soil mixed with sand. To prevent overwatering, you’ll need soil that drains well. You can also mix in some sand to prevent root rot.
• Fertilize once a month. If your leaves start turning pale, chances are your philodendron is not getting enough calcium and magnesium. This Aquatic Arts Philodendron Fertilizer is specifically designed for philodendron health and enhances (and fastens) the growth process. Furthermore, the eight-ounce bottle will last approximately a year, so you don’t have to worry about repeatedly buying it.  
• Repot as necessary. Philodendrons can grow to be quite large, so you’ll need to adjust the size of their container as needed.
• Place your philodendron near a window. Your plant will need enough sunlight, but it needs to be indirect. A window that receives sufficient sunlight is an ideal location.
• Keep your plant away from air conditioning vents. Philodendrons do not do well in cool weather, so if they are exposed to the cold draft of air conditioning, they could suffer. 
• Water your plant once a week. Philodendrons do well with thorough watering once a week. You should also let the soil dry out between waterings. If you feel the soil after a week and it still feels damp to the touch, don’t water it until the soil feels dry.
• Propagate your plant. Use sharp garden clippers to cut off parts of the stem and plant it in three inches of moist soil. Propagating helps you control the size of your philodendron because they can grow quite large if left uncontrolled.

By following these tips, you can ensure that your philodendron stays as healthy and beautiful as possible.  

Conclusion

Philodendrons are gorgeous plants largely thanks to their big and beautiful leaves. Therefore, if your leaves start to fall off, you may not enjoy the appearance of your plant as much. Numerous issues can contribute to this problem, including improper watering, insufficient access to light, and pest infestation. Luckily, proper plant care and maintenance can prevent these problems.

You may also like:

• Philodendron White Measure vs. Birkin
• Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Drooping?
• Propagating Philodendron in Water

Sophia

Hi! I’m Sophia, and I love plants – especially an expert in growing house plants. I stay in Chicago, United States of America, and through my blog and social media platforms, provide tips and tricks on how to grow healthy, vibrant plants indoors. Check out more here.

The post Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Falling off? appeared first on HousePlantsInfo.com.

If your philodendron leaves are drooping, it means there’s something wrong with the plant– either in its roots or in its environment.

Your philodendron leaves are drooping due to plant shock, an unsuitable environment, or a pest infestation. Plant shock and an unsuitable environment are the most common reasons for your philodendron leaves to droop. An unsuitable environment may include poor watering, lighting, or drainage.

This plant genus is pretty resilient, so if it’s showing signs of deterioration and death, you should first look at whether it’s been injured, and then at its environment. As you continue to read, you’ll learn more about how to build a climate your philodendron will thrive and how to help it recover its liveliness.

Three Possible Causes for Philodendron Leaf Drooping

As I mentioned, there are three possible causes for a philodendron to have drooping leaves: it’s either experiencing shock (which is common after a transplant or accidental damage), or the environment it’s in isn’t suitable for the plant’s growth. Let’s take an in-depth look at both.

1. Transplant Shock, Injury, or Stress

Suppose you’ve recently moved homes and your philodendron got knocked around in the moving truck. Or, if you’re anything like me, you’ve got a rowdy dog (or a playful cat) that has knocked your plant over one too many times.

When plants experience an injury, they can go through stress, sometimes resulting in overall stunted growth and, thus–drooping leaves.

Along with sad-looking leaves, you might notice a few other signs that can point to plant shock, such as shriveled leaves or a soft, spongy stem. Additionally, if any part of the plant has been broken, torn, or cut- that can trigger plant shock.

Transplant shock happens when you repot a plant. If you’ve recently done so with your philodendron, it’ll need time to acclimatize. Otherwise, if you think your plant is experiencing shock, make sure to follow its watering schedule because consistent water will help the plant strengthen its roots to overcome the injury.

2. Unsuitable Environment

If your philodendron hasn’t experienced anything traumatic lately, it’s time to look at the plant’s environment. There are a few areas to focus on first, such as lighting, watering, soil conditions, and temperature. I’ll discuss these more in-depth in the following sections.

The Plant Has Too Much or Too Little Lighting

Philodendrons both need and adore sunlight, but the direct beating sun is often too intense. Instead, this species prefers filtered sunlight hidden within the shade of taller canopies. So, philodendrons will grow healthily in bright, indirect light.

Which direction is your plant facing? A general rule of thumb is that east, west, and south-facing plants will get the most sunlight while north-facing plants get the least.

However, west and south-facing plants will get strong and direct light, which is too harsh for Philodendrons to thrive in. Consider placing your plant in an east-facing window where the sun is softer.

If your philodendron isn’t getting enough light, it’ll be leggy– meaning there will be lots of space between each individual leaf. If it’s getting too much light, the leaves will get the equivalent of a sunburn– they’ll dry up and turn from green to yellow, to brown.

The Plant Is Over or Under Watered

For most plants, and especially philodendrons, soggy, oversaturated soil can lead to a root disease called root rot. The roots decay from being overwatered, and the decay eventually consumes the entire plant from the bottom up.

Philodendrons prefer moist soil, and you should allow them to dry almost completely before watering again.

If you’re concerned about root rot, look for a black stem and wilting leaves. To take it a step further, you can examine the plant’s root ball– if the typically white roots are brown or black, your philodendron is experiencing root rot.

Being under-watered is just as bad as being over-watered. The signs of an under-watered plant are wilted discolored leaves and general stunted growth. It may take much longer for your philodendron to put out new growth if it’s not getting enough water to maintain its root system.

This plant species requires one thorough watering a week.

The Plant Is Too Warm or Too Cold

Philodendrons grow best in temperate regions or, at the very least, in moderately warm environments. Typically, they thrive in hardiness zones nine to ten, approximately 20°F to 40°F (-6.7°C to 4.4°C). Many states, such as Florida, Texas, and Louisiana, are ideal temperatures for philodendrons to grow.

If you live in a cold region or you prefer to keep your house temperature lower, there are warming lights you can purchase to keep your philodendron comfortable. The Industrial Performance Heat Lamp Light Bulbs (available on Amazon.com) are the best bang for your buck, as they come in a pack of twelve.

Simply screw them into a desk lamp for smaller plants or a standing one such as the Anten Tree Floor Lamp (available on Amazon.com), and let the lights do the rest!

3. Pest Infestation

Finally, your philodendron could be infested with pests, which can quickly cause plant death if not taken care of as soon as possible. Some common insects that cause damage to the plant are thrips, mealybugs, and aphids.

If your philodendron’s leaves are drooping and yellowing, you must inspect it for pests.

If you find that insects are the problem, there are a number of steps you should follow to help it recover:

• Isolate the plant from your other house plants. Insects will travel to nearby plants if given the opportunity. For this reason, moving the infested plant is essential until it’s been treated. The bathtub is a great place to keep the philodendron during treatment.
• Prune away the diseased leaves. Once the philodendron is on its own, you must prune away all of the diseased parts of the plant. Make sure to use a sterilized pair of scissors and wipe the scissors with a cloth in between pruning.
• Give the plant a wash with insecticidal soap. Non-toxic insecticidal soaps and neem oils are the most popular products to use on the infected philodendron. Bonide Captain Jack’s Neem Oil (available on Amazon.com) is effective at treating most pest infestations.

Ways To Make Your Philodendron Happy

There are nearly five hundred philodendron species in this plant family, so it would be impossible to name all of the different environments they thrive in. Regardless, the following tips are an umbrella overview of general philodendron care:

• Prune semi-regularly. When you prune your philodendron, the excess energy that would have been used for the pruned leaf gets redirected to produce more growth. Therefore, you’re constantly encouraging the plant to put out new leaves by pruning semi-regularly.
• Water once a week. Most philodendrons enjoy a thorough soak once a week. They don’t like soggy soil, which makes them susceptible to root rot, among other diseases. Misting their leaves is also a good idea.
• Provide a trellis. Some philodendrons are climbing vines and enjoy having something to reach for. A ladder or a pot trellis can do wonders for your wandering plant! The Another Garden Trellis (available on Amazon.com) is a reliable option that I’ve used with many of my climbing plants.
• Use fertilizer once a month. With fertilized soil, philodendrons will consume rich nutrients, which will promote successful, healthy growth. Mulch (decaying leaves) or compost can be added to the soil as fertilizer, as well.
• Avoid direct sunlight. Philodendrons love dappled light, so in general– avoid putting your plant in direct sunlight. Instead, place it in a bright, east-facing room where it’ll receive soft light from the morning sun.
• Ensure your philodendron pot has a drainage hole. For those plants living in containers versus outdoors, ensure their pot has a proper drainage hole. Philodendron pots without drainage holes are more likely to sit in wet soil and develop root issues. If it’s outdoors, you must make sure the ground it’s planted in has good drainage.
• Repot your plant as necessary. As your philodendron grows, it may need bigger and bigger-sized containers. Make sure that you’re repotting your plant as needed. The plant won’t produce much growth if it’s in a pot that is too small. So, if you’ve got a large plant that’s stopped growing in an inappropriately sized pot, it’s time to move homes.
• Mark it on the calendar. If you have trouble remembering when you last watered your philodendron, mark it on the calendar and make a habit of checking it daily. An easy solution is to make plant watering a chore for a specific day of the week. I like to water my plants on Wednesdays, just because!

Conclusion

Your philodendron might have drooping leaves for a few reasons, such as transplant shock or poor watering, lighting, and temperature conditions. Pests could also cause drooping leaves, so to help the plant recover, thoroughly examine all of these possibilities and determine the appropriate solution.

With the proper recovery strategies and future care, your philodendron should grow successfully and happily!

You may like the following articles:

• Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Falling off
• Split Leaf Philodendron Soil
• Propagating Philodendron in Water
• Philodendron Leaves Turning Yellow

Sophia

Hi! I’m Sophia, and I love plants – especially an expert in growing house plants. I stay in Chicago, United States of America, and through my blog and social media platforms, provide tips and tricks on how to grow healthy, vibrant plants indoors. Check out more here.

The post Why Are My Philodendron Leaves Drooping? appeared first on HousePlantsInfo.com.

The Split Leaf Philodendron, also known as Philodendron Selloum, is no exception because it needs suitable soil to thrive. Your Philodendron’s potting mix should be loose, fast-draining, and rich with organic matter. It should hold in moisture without retaining excess water.

We will discuss what to look for in good quality soil, so your Split Leaf Philodendron is always healthy and happy. We will also discuss the different soil amendments you can use, how often you should repot, and how to store your potting mix to minimize wastage properly. Let’s start!

The Best Kind of Soil for Split Leaf Philodendrons

The best soil for your Split Leaf Philodendron is fast-draining and loose. It should contain soil amendments to help improve its physical attributes. Your Split Leaf Philodendron will grow bigger and lusher quicker if you provide it with the best possible soil. Your main goal in choosing the best soil for your plant is to provide a suitable environment for the roots.

Soil amendments affect soil quality by enhancing these essential factors:

• Porosity. The more porous soil is, the better it can provide water and oxygen for your plants.
• Permeability. This attribute refers to how well water and oxygen can move through the soil.
• Drainage. Good drainage should allow water to move through and out of the soil primarily because of the natural force of gravity.
• Aeration. Compact soil isn’t good for plants. Good aeration addresses this by oxidizing the soil and allowing water and nutrients to penetrate deeper into the pot, thus allowing roots to take in as much as they need.
• Rooting depth. The more plants’ roots can grow deeper in the soil, the better they can absorb water and essential nutrients.

You can separate soil amendments into two categories – organic and inorganic. Organic soil amendments are essentially objects that used to be classified as living things and naturally occurring in nature. On the other hand, inorganic amendments are man-made or mined.

Here are some of the best organic soil amendments you could use:

• Coco peat
• Coco chips
• Sphagnum moss
• Wood chips
• Orchid bark
• Grass clippings
• Wood ash
• Sawdust
• Compost
• Manure
• Straw.

Here are some of the best inorganic soil amendments you might want to consider:

• Perlite
• Vermiculite
• Pea Gravel
• Sand.

Are Soil Amendments Fertilizers?

Soil amendments are not fertilizers. They are organic or inorganic matter added to the soil to improve its quality and physical attributes, indirectly affecting the growth of plants. On the other hand, fertilizers are substances that add nutrients to the soil, directly affecting how plants grow.

Soil amendments can make the difference between a philodendron plant surviving and thriving.

How To Tell if Your Soil Is Perfect for Your Split Leaf Philodendron

A good potting mix is essential in keeping your Split Leaf Philodendron healthy and happy. If your soil can’t provide it with the oxygen, water, and nutrients it needs, it may not be able to develop those large, fenestrated leaves that people love so much. A thriving Split Leaf Philodendron calls for proper care and good-quality soil.

Here are some clues indicating that your soil is perfect for your Split Leaf Philodendron:

• Consistent growth
• New leaves are the same sized, if not bigger, than the older ones
• Potting mix is fluffy, light, and airy
• Able to retain moisture
• Excess water immediately pours out from the drainage holes
• The water doesn’t pool on the surface.

Telltale Signs That Your Soil Is Bad for Your Split Leaf Philodendron

Sometimes, plants send signals to tell us that something is not going well for them. The key is to familiarize yourself with your plants to identify subtle changes and react quickly. Acting fast to address these issues will do wonders for your plants.

Here are some signs that you might need to change your Split Leaf Philodendron’s soil:

• Stunted growth.
• No new growth.
• Distorted growth on the new leaves.
• Discoloration.
• Your plant wilts a day or two after watering.
• Water pooling on the surface rather than getting absorbed by the soil.
• Excess water escaping from the drainage holes takes longer than usual to flow out.
• The soil is hard, compact, and clumpy.
• The soil has a foul odor.
• Insect infestation in the soil.
• Moldy soil.

How Often Should You Change the Soil in Your Potted Plants’ Pots?

You should change the soil in your potted plants every 12-18 months. You don’t have to wait for the soil to go bad before you change it. Remember that your plants utilize the soil for water, oxygen, and nutrient absorption, so it is best to provide a good-quality potting mix.

Change the soil in the springtime because plants enjoy the most sunshine this season. Lots of sun encourages growth, both in the leaves and the roots. Your plants can get over the shock sooner and transition better if they are at their strongest.

How To Change Your Split Leaf Philodendron’s Soil

Changing the soil of any potted plant can be tricky, especially if it’s a large specimen like a Split Leaf Philodendron. You have to be extra careful about snapping leaves and stems in half. You also have to ensure that the transition is seamless, so your plant doesn’t suffer from unnecessary stress.

Here are some clear signs that it’s about time you change your Philodendron’s soil:

Root Overload

If you see roots coming out of the drainage holes, it means your plant needs some fresh soil. Sometimes, the roots might even start pushing the plant up and out of the pot. In this case, consider moving it to a bigger pot, at least 2-4 inches bigger than the current one. This change will give it the extra room it craves to grow.

Slow Growth

You should know how fast your plant produces new leaves. If there’s a little slack in the routine, it might mean that the soil can no longer provide what it needs. If your Split Leaf Philodendron growth inexplicably slows down, it might be due to a lack of proper nutrition. Without essential minerals and nutrients, it won’t have the energy to produce new growth.

Top-Heavy and Unstable

Your Split Leaf Philodendron may have grown substantially so that its leaves are about three times the size of its pot. If your plant has grown top-heavy so that it starts to tilt at the slightest movement, then it’s clear that it needs new soil plus a bigger pot. Delaying repotting might result in stunted and deformed growth.

It’s Been a Year

If it’s been a year since you last changed your Split Leaf Philodendron’s soil, then it’s about time you do. It doesn’t matter if the soil still looks good or if it doesn’t smell foul at all. Giving your plant fresh new soil will allow it to absorb even more nutrients, water, and oxygen. This step is crucial at this point when it is actively growing.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on changing the soil of your potted Split Leaf Philodendron:

Materials needed:

• New pot (cleaned and sanitized) with drainage holes
• Plastic or rubber mat
• A watering can, filled with rainwater or filtered water
• Gloves
• Trowel
• Lava rocks or decorative pebbles (optional)
• Fresh potting mix.

Process:

1. Put on your gloves. This step is necessary because Philodendrons sometimes secrete a sap that may irritate your skin.
2. Turn your Split Leaf Philodendron on its side. Hold on to the pot and the stem, then gently tap and tug until you feel the plant loosening its hold on the pot.
3. Pull out your Split Leaf Philodendron from its pot. Be very gentle to avoid damaging leaves and roots.
4. Clean the roots. Get rid of as much soil from the roots. You may use your gloved hands or clean the roots under running water.
5. Prune the roots. Get rid of mushy roots since these will rot in the new potting mix.
6. Pour a layer of fresh potting soil into the new pot. Use your trowel. Do not pack the soil into the pot because your Split Leaf Philodendron won’t appreciate dense soil.
7. Position your plant inside the new pot. Make sure it’s at the center to avoid it tipping over.
8. Add more potting mix to the pot. Make sure that you tuck your plant securely into the soil. Leave about an inch of space from the top of the pot.
9. Add the lava rocks or decorative pebbles if you wish. These will give your Split Leaf Philodendron a new, fresher look!
10. Water your plant thoroughly. Wash the stems and leaves to get rid of any soil that may have stuck. Water until the excess liquid flows out from the drainage holes.
11. Place your newly repotted Split Leaf Philodendron in a sunny, well-ventilated area. It would be best to put it back in its original location to minimize stress on the plant.

How To Properly Store Potting Soil

Storing your potting mix isn’t as simple as closing the bag it came with and dumping it in the corner of your shed or garage. It would be best to store your potting mix properly so you can use it for longer and ensure it is in top form for your plants. Throwing out soil that has gone bad is a waste, so proper storage will help you save money, too.

Here is how to properly store your potting soil (if you have already opened the bag ):

1. Pour the contents into a resealable opaque plastic container.
2. Seal the container, making sure there are no holes or gaps through which insects might be able to crawl.
3. Store the container in a cool and dry area that you will not expose to the elements.

Storing your potting mix can be tricky if you live in areas with harsh winters like Minneapolis and Boston. Keep your sealed container away from snow and powerful winds since moisture might seep in. Moisture will encourage the growth of molds and render your potting mix practically useless.

Key Takeaways

Split Leaf Philodendrons are easy-care plants that can practically thrive in neglect. The right potting mix is the secret to growing lush Philodendrons because they absorb water, oxygen, and nutrients through their roots before distributing these to their leaves and stems. All you need to do is provide them with good-quality soil, sufficient sunlight, and adequate water, and you’re all set.

You may also like:

• Split-Leaf Philodendron Propagation
• Leaf Spot Disease Philodendron

Sophia

Hi! I’m Sophia, and I love plants – especially an expert in growing house plants. I stay in Chicago, United States of America, and through my blog and social media platforms, provide tips and tricks on how to grow healthy, vibrant plants indoors. Check out more here.

The post Split Leaf Philodendron Soil appeared first on HousePlantsInfo.com.

The short version: Propagating philodendron in water works best with a 4 to 6 inch vining cutting that has at least one node, set in room-temperature water in bright, indirect light.

Change the water every 3 to 7 days, and expect first roots in 1 to 3 weeks. Move the cutting to soil once the roots reach 1 to 3 inches long.

This guide covers choosing the right cutting, setting up the jar indoors, the rooting timeline, fixing common problems, and moving your new plant into soil.

At a Glance

The setup is simple: a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears and a narrow glass jar or bottle are all you need to begin. A clear container lets you watch root growth and spot cloudy water early.

Which Philodendrons Root Best in Water?

Vining philodendrons root in water quickly and reliably, while upright, self-heading types are slower and less predictable. If you want an easy first success, start with a trailing variety.

Easy Vining Choices

Heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum) and its cultivars, such as ‘Brasil’ and ‘Lemon Lime’, are the classic choice. Velvet-leaf philodendron (Philodendron micans) also roots well. These plants grow along long stems with many nodes, so one vine can give you several cuttings.

Climbing types with larger leaves, such as blushing philodendron (Philodendron erubescens) and many aroid hybrids, also root in water. Their thicker stems may take a little longer, but they usually succeed with a healthy node.

Self-Heading Types Need More Patience

Self-heading philodendrons, such as ‘Congo’, ‘Rojo’ and ‘Birkin‘, grow from a short central stem rather than a long vine. They have fewer nodes to work with, so cuttings are harder to take without harming the mother plant. Many growers divide these at the base instead.

If you are curious about keeping a plant in water long term rather than just rooting it, read more about whether a philodendron can grow in water permanently.

Pick a Healthy Parent Plant

Take cuttings only from a plant with firm stems and green, unblemished leaves. Avoid stems with yellowing, soft spots or pests, because a stressed cutting has fewer reserves to grow roots. Spring and summer cuttings root fastest, since warmer rooms and longer days speed growth.

How to Start Propagating Philodendron in Water, Step by Step

Cut just below a node, remove the lowest leaf, and place the node under water in a clean glass. The whole process takes about five minutes.

Step 1: Find the Node

A node is the slightly swollen ring on the stem where a leaf joins. Roots grow from nodes, not from the stem between them. Many philodendrons show a small brown nub or aerial root at the node, which often turns into a water root quickly.

Step 2: Make a Clean Cut

Use sharp, clean shears wiped with rubbing alcohol. Cut about 1/4 inch below a node, aiming for a cutting 4 to 6 inches long with 1 to 3 leaves. A crushed stem from dull blades is more likely to rot.

Step 3: Trim the Lower Leaves

Remove any leaf that would sit below the waterline. Submerged leaves decay fast and cloud the water. Keep at least one healthy leaf at the top, since the leaf makes the energy the cutting needs to grow roots.

Step 4: Set Up the Jar

Fill a clean glass with room-temperature water. Place the cutting so one or two nodes sit under water and the leaves stay above it. A narrow neck helps hold the cutting upright.

Step 5: Let Tap Water Rest First

Most tap water works fine. Letting it sit uncovered overnight brings it to room temperature and lets some chlorine escape. If your water is very hard, filtered or rainwater can reduce mineral crust on the glass.

Sophia’s tip: Take two or three cuttings at once and root them in the same jar. Several rooted stems potted together make a fuller plant much sooner than a single cutting.

Do You Need Rooting Hormone?

No. Philodendrons root readily in water on their own. Rooting hormone is designed for soil or dry media and mostly washes off in a jar, so it adds little here.

Where Should the Jar Sit Indoors?

Place the jar in bright, indirect light at 65°F to 80°F, out of drafts. Light and warmth matter more for rooting speed than anything else you control.

Window Direction and Distance

An east-facing window is ideal, with gentle morning sun. A west or south window works if the jar sits 3 to 6 feet back from the glass or behind a sheer curtain.

A north window often gives too little light for steady rooting, especially in winter.

Avoid direct afternoon sun on the jar. Clear glass heats up and encourages algae, and strong sun can bleach the leaves. If you notice philodendron leaves turning white or pale, move the cutting farther from the window.

Winter Heat and Summer Drafts

Radiators and forced-air vents warm the water unevenly and dry out leaves. Keep cuttings at least a few feet from heat sources. In summer, keep them out of the direct path of an air conditioner, since cold drafts below about 60°F slow rooting.

A cold windowsill in a northern winter can chill water overnight. Pull the jar off the sill on frigid nights, or root cuttings on a shelf away from the glass.

Using a Grow Light

A full-spectrum grow light helps in dark apartments or during short winter days. Set it 6 to 12 inches above the leaves for 12 to 14 hours a day. A simple timer keeps the schedule steady.

How Long Does It Take Philodendron Roots to Grow in Water?

Most vining philodendron cuttings show first roots in 1 to 3 weeks and are ready for soil in about 3 to 6 weeks. Thick-stemmed or self-heading types can take 4 to 8 weeks or longer.

What Speeds It Up

Warm water near 70°F to 75°F, bright indirect light, and a cutting with an existing aerial root all help. Spring and summer cuttings usually root faster than those taken in late fall.

What Slows It Down

Cool rooms, low light, and cuttings without a healthy leaf root slowly. Dark winter months in a northern apartment can easily double the timeline. Slow is normal, as long as the stem stays firm and green.

Sophia’s tip: Mark the date on a piece of tape on the jar. It is easy to lose track of time, and knowing the week helps you judge whether a cutting is slow or truly stalled.

How Do You Keep the Water Clean?

Change the water every 3 to 7 days, or sooner if it turns cloudy or smells sour. Clean water keeps bacteria from attacking the cut stem.

A Simple Water Routine

Pour out the old water, rinse the jar, and refill with fresh room-temperature water. Gently rinse the stem and roots under lukewarm tap water if they feel slimy. Handle new roots carefully, since they snap easily.

Top up the jar between changes if water evaporates, so the nodes stay covered. Warm, dry winter air from forced heat can drop the level faster than you expect.

Dealing With Algae

Green film on the glass comes from light hitting the water. It is not directly harmful, but it competes for oxygen and makes roots hard to see. Scrub the jar, and consider a tinted glass or moving the jar out of direct sun.

Should You Add Fertilizer?

Cuttings do not need fertilizer while forming roots, since the stem and leaves supply what they need at first. Adding fertilizer early can encourage algae.

If you plan to keep a plant in water for months, a very dilute liquid fertilizer every 4 to 6 weeks can help.

Cutting Not Rooting or Rotting? Causes and Fixes

Most failures come from a cutting with no node, warm stale water, or too little light. The good news is that you can often save part of the stem.

No Node on the Cutting

A piece of stem or a leaf without a node will not grow a new plant, even if it stays green for weeks. Fix it by taking a new cutting just below a node. Check the stem for the swollen ring before you cut.

Mushy, Brown or Black Stem

Soft, dark stems mean rot, usually from bacteria in old water or a crushed cut. Trim the stem above the soft section with clean shears, rinse it, and start again in fresh water.

Rot that spreads into leaves can cause philodendron leaves turning black, so act quickly.

Yellow or Dropping Leaves

One yellow leaf is often normal, since the cutting draws energy from older leaves while forming roots. Several yellowing leaves usually point to low light, cold water, or too many leaves for the stem to support.

If you see your philodendron leaves falling off quickly, move the jar to brighter, warmer spot and check the stem for rot.

Roots Stall at Tiny Nubs

Short root tips that stop growing usually need more light or warmth. Move the jar closer to a bright window or under a grow light, and keep the room above 65°F. Fresh water and patience usually restart growth within a week or two.

Quick Troubleshooting Table

When Should You Move Your Philodendron From Water to Soil?

Move the cutting to soil when the roots are 1 to 3 inches long and have started to branch. Waiting much longer makes the switch harder, because water roots grow more fragile the longer they stay in water.

Signs the Cutting Is Ready

Look for several firm white roots rather than one long strand. Small side roots branching off the main roots are a strong sign. A new leaf unfurling also shows the cutting is established.

Choosing the Pot and Mix

Use a small pot, about 4 inches wide, with a drainage hole. A pot that is too large holds excess moisture around tiny roots. Choose a light, airy mix, such as indoor potting soil blended with perlite and orchid bark, so water drains freely.

How to Pot the Cutting

Fill the pot partway, set the roots in gently, and add mix around them without pressing hard. Bury the node just below the surface. Water thoroughly until it drains, and let excess water run out completely.

Helping Water Roots Adjust

Roots grown in water are adapted to constant moisture, so the first two weeks matter most. Keep the soil lightly moist, never soggy, while the plant grows soil roots.

After that, let the top inch dry before watering, following a normal schedule for how often you should water a philodendron.

Some drooping in the first week is normal transplant stress. Keep the plant in the same bright, indirect light and away from heat vents while it settles.

Sophia’s tip: Push a finger into the soil every couple of days during the first two weeks. The mix should feel like a wrung-out sponge, not wet or bone dry.

Can You Leave It in Water?

Yes, many vining philodendrons live in water for months or longer. They grow more slowly than plants in soil and need regular water changes and occasional dilute fertilizer. For a fuller, faster-growing plant, soil is usually the better long-term home.

Is Propagating Philodendron Safe Around Pets and Kids?

Philodendrons are toxic to cats and dogs according to the ASPCA, because they contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. Chewing leaves or stems can cause mouth irritation, drooling, pawing at the mouth and vomiting.

Jars of cuttings sit low on sills and tables, which puts them within reach of curious pets and children. Place rooting jars on a high shelf or in a room your pets cannot enter.

Avoid letting pets drink the jar water, and wash your hands after handling cut stems, since the sap can irritate skin.

Your Next Steps

• Choose a healthy vining stem and find at least one node with a small aerial root nub.
• Cut 1/4 inch below the node, remove submerged leaves, and set the cutting in room-temperature water.
• Place the jar 3 to 6 feet from an east or west window, away from radiators and AC drafts.
• Change the water every 3 to 7 days and note the start date on the jar.
• Pot the cutting in a small pot with airy mix once roots reach 1 to 3 inches.
• Keep the soil lightly moist for two weeks, then switch to regular philodendron watering.

Common Questions About Propagating Philodendron in Water

Sophia

Hi! I’m Sophia, and I love plants – especially an expert in growing house plants. I stay in Chicago, United States of America, and through my blog and social media platforms, provide tips and tricks on how to grow healthy, vibrant plants indoors. Check out more here.

The post Propagating Philodendron in Water: 8 Steps From Cutting to Roots appeared first on HousePlantsInfo.com.

The philodendron white measure vs birkin question confuses plenty of indoor growers, because the two plants can look nearly identical in one pot and wildly different in the next.

The short version: White Measure is generally treated as a heavily variegated Birkin selection, not a separate species.

Both come from the same mutation of Philodendron ‘Rojo Congo’, and the main visible difference is that White Measure shows broader white streaks while classic Birkin shows thin pinstripes.

This guide covers where these plants come from, how to read the leaves, why stripes shift over time, how to care for both, and which one makes sense for your home.

At a Glance

Are White Measure and Birkin the Same Plant?

In most cases, yes. White Measure is a trade name for a Birkin-type plant with heavier white streaking, and many growers consider it a highly variegated Birkin selection rather than a distinct plant.

What the Name Actually Means

Trade names are labels sellers use to market a plant. They are not formal botanical names, and nobody enforces how they are applied.

That is why one seller’s White Measure can look like another seller’s ordinary Birkin. Some vendors reserve the name for plants with wide white bands, while others use it for any Birkin with slightly more white than average.

Why the Confusion Matters

Because the names are used inconsistently, the label on the pot tells you less than the leaves do. Two plants with different labels can share the same genetics and behave the same way at home.

If you are comparing plants in person, look at them under neutral light.

Store lighting can wash out cream tones or make green look paler, so a small handheld magnifier and a full-spectrum grow light at home help you judge stripe width and color accurately once the plant arrives.

The Practical Takeaway

Think of White Measure as a description of a look rather than a separate plant. You are really choosing between a Birkin with fine stripes and a Birkin with bold streaks.

Where the Birkin Comes From

The Birkin arose as a sport, or natural mutation, of Philodendron ‘Rojo Congo’. Rojo Congo is a solid dark plant with deep green to burgundy leaves, and the Birkin is the striped variation that appeared from it.

What a Sport Is

A sport is a part of a plant that develops a genetic change and grows differently from the rest. Growers notice an unusual shoot, propagate it, and keep selecting for the new trait.

With the Birkin, that trait is white or cream pinstriping across dark green leaves. The underlying plant is still closely tied to its Rojo Congo parent.

Why the Parent Plant Still Matters

Because the Birkin comes from Rojo Congo, it can revert toward that darker form. A reverted stem produces solid dark leaves with little or no striping.

White Measure carries the same background. Its bold variegation sits on the same unstable genetics, so it can shift toward heavier white, toward classic pinstripes, or back toward dark green.

Growth Habit

Both plants grow in a compact, upright, self-heading form rather than vining across a shelf. If you are wondering does Philodendron Birkin climb, the answer affects how you stake and pot it, and the same applies to White Measure.

How to Tell Them Apart by the Leaves

Look at stripe width and pattern. White Measure leaves usually show wide white bands or patches, while classic Birkin shows thin, even pinstripes running from the midrib toward the leaf edge.

Classic Birkin Leaves

A typical Birkin leaf is glossy dark green with fine white or cream lines. The stripes follow the leaf veins and feel almost painted on with a fine brush.

Young leaves often unfurl with more white or a pale cream tone. As they mature, the green usually deepens and the stripes look more defined.

White Measure Leaves

White Measure leaves tend to carry broad white streaks, sometimes covering large sections of the leaf. You may see thick bands, splashes, or patches instead of thin lines.

Some leaves on a White Measure may look closer to a standard Birkin. That mix is normal and reflects the unstable variegation both plants share.

What Not to Rely On

Do not judge a plant by a single leaf. One heavily striped leaf on a Birkin does not make it a White Measure, and one plain leaf on a White Measure does not mean it was mislabeled.

Look at the newest three or four leaves instead. They show you where the plant’s variegation is currently heading.

Sophia’s tip: Before buying, check the growing point where new leaves emerge. If the newest leaf and the stem below it carry the stripe pattern you want, the plant is more likely to keep producing it.

Philodendron White Measure vs Birkin: Side-by-Side Comparison Table

The two plants differ mainly in how much white they show and how they are priced. Care, growth habit, and toxicity are the same.

Why Variegation Changes on the Same Plant

Variegation on both plants is unstable, so a single pot can push heavily white leaves, lightly striped leaves, or solid dark leaves over time. This is normal genetic behavior, not a sign you did something wrong.

Leaves With More White

Sometimes a plant pushes leaves that are mostly or entirely white. These look striking, but white tissue lacks chlorophyll, so the leaf cannot photosynthesize well.

Nearly all-white leaves often brown at the edges or decline early. If you are seeing this, the guide on Philodendron Birkin white leaves turning brown explains which causes come from genetics and which come from care.

Leaves With Fewer Stripes

Other times, new leaves come in greener with thinner or fewer stripes. Low light often makes this more noticeable, because the plant favors green tissue that can capture more energy.

In a Chicago winter, a plant that sat happily 3 feet from a west window in summer may need to move closer, or get a grow light for 10 to 12 hours a day.

Reversion to the Rojo Congo Form

A reverted stem produces dark green to burgundy leaves with no stripes. Because green tissue grows more vigorously, a reverted stem can gradually take over the plant.

Pruning reverted dark stems is the standard way to keep variegation. Cut the stem back to a point below the reverted growth, ideally just above a node with striped leaves.

Spots Versus Natural Browning

Not every brown mark relates to variegation. Fungal, bacterial, or watering problems can also cause spotting, and the article on brown spots on a Birkin helps you sort out the cause.

Sophia’s tip: Keep reverted cuttings instead of throwing them out. Root them and you get a separate dark plant, while the mother plant keeps its stripes.

Care Is the Same for Both

Both plants need the same care: bright indirect light, steady warmth, moderate humidity, a chunky mix, and careful watering. The only adjustment is giving very white plants a little extra attention to light and humidity.

Light

Bright indirect light keeps the stripes strong. An east window is ideal, and a west or south window works if you set the plant 3 to 5 feet back or filter the light with a sheer curtain.

Avoid harsh direct afternoon sun on the leaves, which can scorch white tissue. In darker apartments or during winter, a full-spectrum grow light placed 12 to 24 inches above the plant fills the gap.

Water

Water when the top 1 to 2 inches of mix feel dry. Water thoroughly until it drains, then empty the saucer so roots never sit in standing water.

Plants dry faster near radiators and forced-air vents in winter, and slower in cool rooms. Check with your finger rather than watering on a fixed schedule.

Humidity and Temperature

Aim for around 50 percent humidity or higher. Dry winter air from heating can crisp leaf edges, so a humidifier nearby helps, especially for White Measure plants with lots of white tissue.

Keep temperatures between 65 and 80°F. Move plants away from drafty windows, exterior doors, and AC vents that blow directly on them.

Soil and Feeding

Use a chunky, well-draining aroid mix, such as potting soil blended with orchid bark and perlite. This lets roots breathe and helps prevent rot.

Feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength once a month in spring and summer. Skip feeding in fall and winter when growth slows.

Growth and Propagation

Growth rate depends heavily on light and warmth. For a sense of how fast philodendrons grow, expect steady new leaves during the warm months and a slowdown in winter.

To multiply either plant, take a stem cutting with at least one node. Many growers find propagating philodendron in water an easy way to watch roots form before potting up.

Keep in mind that a cutting inherits the variegation of the stem it came from. A cutting from a heavily white section may produce weak, white-heavy growth, while one from a reverted section stays dark.

Pet Safety

The ASPCA lists philodendrons as toxic to cats and dogs, and that includes both Birkin and White Measure. For details on symptoms and placement, read are philodendron plants toxic to cats, and keep pots on high shelves away from pets and young kids.

Which One Should You Buy?

Buy the plant whose actual leaves you like best at a price that feels fair. Since the names are used inconsistently and both plants share the same genetics, the label should not decide for you.

Choose a Classic Birkin If

• You want a balanced, reliable look with fine pinstripes.
• You prefer a lower price and an easier first striped philodendron.
• Your space has moderate bright light rather than a very bright window.

Classic Birkins tend to have more green tissue, which gives them more energy for steady growth. They are a sensible pick if you are newer to variegated plants.

Choose a White Measure If

• You love bold white streaks and want a statement plant.
• You can provide consistently bright indirect light and humidity around 50 percent.
• You accept that very white leaves may brown and need trimming.

White Measure plants reward good conditions with dramatic foliage. They also ask a bit more of you, especially during dry Chicago-style winters.

Shopping Smart

Prices vary widely from seller to seller. When ordering online, buy from photos of the actual plant you will receive rather than a stock image.

Ask the seller for a clear photo of the newest leaves and the growing point. A plant with mostly white new growth may look appealing but can struggle, while a plant with balanced green and white tends to grow more reliably.

Sophia’s tip: If two plants look the same and one carries the White Measure label at a much higher price, I would buy the cheaper one. You are paying for the leaves, not the name.

Your Next Steps

• Look at the newest three or four leaves on your plant to judge its current variegation pattern.
• Move the pot to bright indirect light, 2 to 4 feet from an east window, or add a grow light in winter.
• Check soil moisture with your finger and water only when the top 1 to 2 inches are dry.
• Prune any fully reverted dark stems back to a node with striped leaves.
• Run a humidifier nearby if your heating keeps indoor air below 50 percent.
• Place the plant out of reach of cats, dogs, and young children.

Common Questions About Philodendron White Measure vs Birkin

Sophia

Hi! I’m Sophia, and I love plants – especially an expert in growing house plants. I stay in Chicago, United States of America, and through my blog and social media platforms, provide tips and tricks on how to grow healthy, vibrant plants indoors. Check out more here.

The post Philodendron White Measure vs Birkin: Are They Different Plants? appeared first on HousePlantsInfo.com.

Philodendron leaves turn yellow when the plant is experiencing issues like overwatering and underwatering. If the soil looks very dry, you should water it right away. If it looks drenched, avoid watering the plant until the soil appears dry. Other problems that cause yellowing include pests.

Many other things could cause philodendron leaves to turn yellow, and this article will discuss them in great detail. Keep reading to learn more.

Potential Causes for Yellow Philodendron Leaves

If your philodendron leaves are turning yellow, it’s essential to understand that this indicates an issue with your plant. You can hopefully figure out the issue by learning more about the different causes of yellow philodendron leaves. If you catch the problem early, you might be able to rectify it.

Below are the leading causes of yellow philodendron leaves.

Overwatering

One of the most common causes of yellowing philodendron leaves is overwatering. Clemson University says you should water a philodendron frequently enough to keep the soil moist. But it shouldn’t be drenched.

Likely, your philodendron doesn’t receive a lot of direct sunlight, meaning it won’t need as much water as plants under the sun. Overwatering can cause a range of issues, including yellowing leaves.

Here are the signs of an overwatered philodendron:

• Droopy leaves
• Yellow leaves
• Spots around the leaves
• Soft, mushy leaves
• Mushy roots

Over time, overwatering can also lead to disease in the roots, which can kill your philodendron. To avoid this you should only water your philodendron when the first few inches of soil are dry instead of sticking to a specific watering schedule,

Don’t water it if it’s been over a week (but the soil is still damp).

If you believe that your philodendron is suffering from overwatering, the best thing to do is avoid watering it until the soil is completely dry. This may take over a week.

You should also ensure the pot has adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, move the plant to a pot with drainage holes.

And if you have confirmed that the plant also has root rot, you should remove all the affected parts of the roots after rinsing them. Then, you can repot your philodendron into fresh, dry potting soil.

Underwatering

Although overwatering can cause yellow philodendron leaves, underwatering can also be an issue. It would help if you always kept an eye on the soil around the plant to make sure it’s not too dry.

Here are the main signs of underwatering in your plant:

• Stunted growth
• Dry soil
• Droopy leaves
• Yellow leaves
• Crispy leaves

Since many of the symptoms of overwatering are the same as underwatering, you need to pay close attention to your philodendron. One of the main differences is the feel of the leaves.

The leaves tend to be limp and soft when an indoor plant is overwatered. But when it’s underwatered, the leaves will be more dry and crispy.

If you suspect underwatering is the issue, you should water your philodendron immediately. Removing highly affected plant parts, like completely dead leaves, will help your plant recover faster.

Make sure you apply enough water to penetrate the roots of the plant. If you’ve placed the plant near a window, it might be a good idea to move it into the shade until it begins to recover.

Keep an eye on the plant and soil over the coming weeks, and give it water as soon as the soil is dry. If you treat the problem early enough, you might be able to fix it.

Too Many Nutrients

Philodendrons need nutrients to survive, but yours may be receiving too many. If you’ve noticed yellowing leaves a while after applying fertilizer, you should stop using it for a few weeks to see if the issue stops.

To keep it healthy, you should fertilize your philodendron lightly once or twice a month. Fertilizing excessively can cause yellowing leaves and other issues in your plants. Philodendrons also prefer high humidity, especially when they’re being fertilized.

If your home isn’t very humid, like most homes in places like Colorado or Montana, you don’t need to worry. Your philodendron will likely be fine. If you’re worried about it being too dry, you can mist water onto the leaves now and then during winter.

A well-balanced fertilizer is best for philodendrons. If you’re using one that’s too strong (for example, a fertilizer with too much nitrogen), you might be damaging your philodendron.

Too Few Nutrients

Too many nutrients can cause yellowing leaves, but too few can also be a big problem. If your potting soil isn’t highly fertile and you’re not using fertilizer, your plant isn’t getting the nutrients it needs to thrive.

To fix this, you should begin using fertilizer right away. All plants (indoor and outdoor) need nutrients to survive.

Signs that your philodendron (and other houseplants) isn’t getting enough nutrients include:

• Yellow leaves
• Green veins on leaves
• Stunted growth

To fix the issue, you should add fertilizer to the soil. Make sure to use a fertilizer suitable for indoor plants.

An example is Jack’s Houseplant Fertilizer, available on Amazon.com. This fertilizer is made explicitly for houseplants (including philodendrons), so it contains all the essential nutrients for your plant.

After you’ve started using fertilizer, you should notice an improvement within a few weeks.

Pests

Since philodendrons are indoor plants, they’re less prone to disease and pests than outdoor plants. However, pests can be a problem in some instances, and they can cause yellowing leaves and other symptoms.

Some of the most common houseplant pests include:

• Aphids
• Mealybugs
• Spider mites

Generally, these pests get into your home if you bring a plant that has been outdoors for an extended period indoors. If you leave affected plants close to other plants, the pests can spread and cause further damage.

If you suspect pests might be causing the yellowing leaves on your philodendron, you should examine the plant thoroughly, particularly under the leaves.

To remove pests from your philodendron, you can spray water onto them. You can also remove them by hand, ensuring you get each one. If the problem is too advanced for handpicking, apply a houseplant pesticide and remove any highly affected plant parts.

Lack of Sunlight

Another thing to consider is sunlight. Thankfully, philodendrons don’t need much sunlight, so you generally don’t have to worry about them not getting enough of it. But if your plant is in complete darkness daily, it might show signs of distress.

Here are some signs that your houseplant (including philodendron) isn’t getting enough sunlight:

• Small leaves
• Yellow leaves
• Pale green leaves
• Stunted growth
• Leggy growth

Philodendrons grow best in partial sunlight, so make sure you’re putting yours at a window that receives sunlight during the day.

If your plant is damaged due to insufficient sunlight, put it in the sun immediately. By giving it adequate sunlight every day, it should begin to improve within a few days or weeks.

Too Much Sun

As I mentioned in the last section, insufficient sunlight can cause yellowing leaves in philodendrons. However, too much sun can cause burning and yellowing leaves.

If you live somewhere that gets super hot and sunny, like Arizona, make sure your philodendron isn’t getting burned. Keep it in partial shade for most of the day, and make sure you’re watering it more if it’s getting too much sun.

While too much sun can cause yellow leaves, it can also make them appear droopy. Keeping your philodendron away from too much sun should fix and prevent this issue from recurring.

Disease

Lastly, different diseases can cause philodendron leaves to turn yellow.

Some of the most common diseases found in philodendrons (according to the Connecticut state government) include:

• Root rot
• Bacterial leaf spot

Both diseases can cause yellow leaves, so you should consider both. While root rot is fungal and often caused by overwatering, the leaf spot is bacterial. Allowing your philodendron to sit in water can cause root rot.

Leaf spot is less likely to cause complete yellowing of leaves, but it can cause some yellowing. You’ll likely notice spotty leaves if your plant has a bacterial leaf spot, and you should remove any affected leaves immediately to treat the disease.

To fix root rot:

1. Change the potting soil and pot.
2. Wash the roots of the plant.
3. Apply fungicide to the roots.
4. Remove the dead parts of the roots.
5. Replant the philodendron in the new pot and soil.

After successfully treating root rot, the leaves should eventually be a healthy green color.

Final Thoughts

There are many reasons why your philodendron roots might be turning yellow. The most common causes are over or underwatering. However, yellowing may also be caused by too many or too few nutrients, too much or insufficient sunlight, pests, and diseases. Once you identify the cause you’ll be able to fix your philodendron leaves and stop any further yellowing.

You may also like:

• Philodendron White Measure vs. Birkin
• Philodendron Leaves Not Unfurling
• Philodendron Leaves Curling After Repotting

Sophia

Hi! I’m Sophia, and I love plants – especially an expert in growing house plants. I stay in Chicago, United States of America, and through my blog and social media platforms, provide tips and tricks on how to grow healthy, vibrant plants indoors. Check out more here.

The post Philodendron Leaves Turning Yellow [Causes & How to Fix] appeared first on HousePlantsInfo.com.

The most common reasons why philodendron leaves don’t unfurl are that the plant isn’t getting enough sunlight, water, or humidity. Adjusting these elements of the plant’s care will encourage its leaves to unfurl and maintain the general health of the plant.

In this article, I’ll explore common reasons why philodendron leaves don’t unfurl and how to fix them so your beautiful plant can continue growing.

1. Your Philodendron Isn’t Getting Enough Humidity

Philodendrons grow and thrive in rainforests where the soil is moist. So, if your philodendron isn’t getting enough moisture at home, this can cause its leaves to get stuck or even break inside its sheaths. However, watering your philodendron is not enough. There has to be enough humidity for it to thrive.

Philodendrons need at least 60-70% humidity in the air. Philodendron is a tropical plant and the warm and humid rainforests of Central and South America are its natural habitat.

Unfurled leaves aside, a philodendron plant will show other signs if it’s not getting enough humidity, such as:

• Dry leaf tips
• Brown leaf tips
• Curling leaf edges
• Leaves falling off the plant

How To Fix

Buying a humidifier that releases cool mist into the room is an easy way to give your plants more humidity. I recommend the AquaOasis Cool Mist Humidifier, available on Amazon. It has a 360° rotating nozzle so you can control where the mist is directed.

A great way to ensure your philodendron gets enough humidity is to mist its leaves every other day.

You could also put a pebble try underneath the plant. This tray contains pebbles and water, providing your plant with constant humidity.

A pebble tray is an especially good idea if your indoor humidity is low. This is usually true for those living in a dry U.S. state such as Arizona or Nevada. Here’s how to make a pebble tray:

1. Find a tray that’s a bit larger than your plant’s pot.
2. Fill it with decorative pebbles.
3. Fill the tray with water, leaving about half an inch (1.3 cm) of dry pebbles on top.
4. Place the pot containing the philodendron plant on top of the pebbles.
5. When the pebble tray dries, add more water. You will have to do this more frequently when the weather is hot.
6. Rinse the pebbles every few weeks and replace the tray’s water. This will discourage insects from coming to the tray.

2. Your Philodendron Needs More Sunlight

Philodendron plants require bright, indirect sunlight. Generally, they should get between one and four hours of indirect sunlight per day. This light should stream through your windows, as Country Living reports.

Philodendrons can usually handle low-light conditions—after all, they’re often covered by tree canopies in their natural habitat. However, not receiving enough light will still affect their growth. They might not grow as quickly as they should, and their leaves could remain unfurled.

How To Fix

Check the light levels that your philodendron plant is getting every day. If you notice that your plant isn’t in enough bright light, move it somewhere where there’s more light. You can place it close to a window, but not under direct sunlight. Philodendrons should get bright, indirect sunlight.

Note that if you have a variegated philodendron plant, it will thrive with even more hours of light per day. This will make its colors bolder and brighter.

Ideally, your philodendron should get indirect sunlight, but if there isn’t enough natural light where you live, you can consider using artificial lights. These lights are especially useful if you live in an area of the U.S. that doesn’t get a lot of sunlight, such as Portland or Pittsburgh.

Fluorescent tubes are 2½ times more efficient than incandescent lights at turning electricity into light, making them one of the best choices for creating indoor lighting for your plants.

Here are a couple of tips for using fluorescent lights:

• Keep your plants at about 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm) from the light. Artificial lighting is at its most effective at this distance.
• If the position of your light fixture isn’t adjustable, you can still place the plants on shelves or stands in order to modify their distance from the light source.

3. You Recently Repotted Your Philodendron

If your philodendron was becoming too large for its pot, there’s a good chance you’ve repotted it. But now, you’re seeing that its leaves are curling or unfurling. The plant is experiencing shock because of the change, but it will get used to its new pot quickly.

How To Fix

There are some important tips you should follow when repotting your philodendron so that it experiences a smooth transition.

• Give the philodendron enough humidity and light during its transition so that it can recover.
• Repot your plant in the next pot size from its current pot. Avoid putting it in a lot larger pot than the previous one. This will cause the soil to remain too wet, which can cause your plant to get brown spots on its leaves and curled leaves.
• Avoid repotting a philodendron if its leaves are currently unfurled. This is a sensitive stage of its growth; you don’t want to disrupt it with massive change.

4. Your Philodendron Is Getting Too Much or Too Little Water

Philodendrons should get enough water, but you shouldn’t over-water either. Both cases can prevent their leaves from growing. It can also cause root rot, a disease that occurs when plants are exposed to too much water over time.

You should adjust your watering schedule depending on the time of year. During the warmer months, you can expect your plant to require more water than during the colder months.

How To Fix

Touch the first inch (2.5 cm) of the plant’s soil with your fingers. If the soil feels dry, you should water your plant. If it’s still moist, don’t water it yet.

A great way to gauge how much moisture is in your plant is to purchase a moisture meter. I recommend the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon. It has a sensing probe that gives you instant, accurate results on the quality of your soil. It also has a large clear dial that’s easy to read.

5. Your Philodendron Isn’t Getting Enough Fertilizer

Philodendron plants are heavy feeders that require fertilizer on a regular basis. This increases their leaf size and generally encourages the growth of a healthier plant with beautiful colors.

If your philodendron doesn’t get enough fertilizer, it will lack the essential nutrients it needs to grow properly. The best fertilizer for philodendrons is a 3-1-2 that’s specifically formulated for philodendrons. It contains three parts nitrogen, one part phosphorous, and two parts potassium.

How To Fix

Purchasing fertilizer is the easiest way to fix a lack of nutrients in your philodendron. I recommend the Philodendron Fertilizer Liquid Plant Food, available from Amazon. It’s been specially formulated to encourage the healthy growth of philodendrons’ leaves, roots, and stems.

You should fertilize your philodendron plant in the spring and summer when it’s in its growing stage. When the plant becomes dormant during the fall and winter, give it fertilizer once every six weeks.

When feeding your plant fertilizer, make sure you apply the fertilizer to moist soil so that you don’t injure or damage the plant’s roots.

The alternative is to make homemade fertilizer with a base of compost. This can also work, but it’s also a little tricky, as its nutritional content will be slightly different each time.

6. Your Philodendron Isn’t Getting the Right Temperature

It’s not just sunlight and humidity that will help your philodendron plant unfurl its leaves—it also needs to be at the correct temperature. The ideal daytime temperatures for philodendrons are between 75 and 85° F (23.8-29°C). For the nighttime, they’re between 65 and 70 °F (18-21°C).

How To Fix

When keeping your philodendron indoors, you should find a compromise between giving the plant enough warmth and keeping your spaces comfortable. You can set your thermostat to around 75° F (23° C) during the day and around 70° F (21°C) at night, which is considered comfortable for most people.

If the temperature that suits you isn’t ideal for your plant, consider putting your plants in a separate room where you can keep the temperature at a different degree. You can achieve this with an HVAC Zoning System that enables you to set different temperatures for different areas in your home.

Summary

If you own a philodendron plant, you’ll probably be disappointed if its leaves look unfurled or stuck.

Luckily, there are some important philodendron care tips you can follow that will help the plant unfurl its leaves and grow healthy:

• Make sure the plant gets approximately four hours of light per day.
• Water the plant when its soil feels dry.
• Give the plant enough humidity—ideally around 60-70 percent.
• Give the plant enough fertilizer.

Keep the plant in temperatures of around 75° F (23° C) during the day and 70° F (21°C) during the night.

You may also like:

• Philodendron Leaves Curling After Repotting
• Philodendron Birkin White Leaves Turning Brown
• Philodendron Birkin Brown Spots
• Philodendron Leaves Turning Yellow

Sophia

Hi! I’m Sophia, and I love plants – especially an expert in growing house plants. I stay in Chicago, United States of America, and through my blog and social media platforms, provide tips and tricks on how to grow healthy, vibrant plants indoors. Check out more here.

The post Philodendron Leaves Not Unfurling [Causes & Fixes] appeared first on HousePlantsInfo.com.

The leaves of your philodendron are curling after repotting because of transplant shock. Transplant shock is the term used to refer to multiple stressors caused by repotting a plan, such as a change in environment, a reduction in size, and physical damage inflicted while transplanting.

In the rest of this article, I’ll explain the symptoms of transplant shock in detail, describe how to help your philodendron when it happens, and show you how to prevent it the next time you venture into repotting. Please read on if you seek a solution to all your repotting problems!

Transplant Shock and Curling Philodendron Leaves

Transplant shock is also the main culprit behind your philodendron leaves curling up. Transplant shock happens when your philodendron suffers a multitude of stressors as a consequence of repotting.

This condition isn’t rare and is known to occur when bringing the plant home from the nursery or moving it to another location in your house. The reasons may vary from improper planting, accidentally causing the plant any physical damage, to a simple environmental change.

All of this can cause the root system to be unable to supply the plant with enough water because the stress makes it incapable of adjusting appropriately, resulting in stunted growth, withering, and making the philodendron susceptible to many diseases.

Transplant Shock Symptoms

The primary reason leaves curl in indoor plants is the poor water availability, whether from root damage or not being watered enough.

When the leaves dry out, your philodendron creates a microclimate around its leaves, i.e., around the stomata, by twisting the leaves along the middle and inwards. This movement manages its opening and closing.

When necessary, the plant opens them to promote absorption and flow of water, but when there is nothing to absorb, it can close the stomata, thus retaining moisture and curling the leaf.

Other symptoms to look out for in your philodendron include:

• Leaf scorch or leaf burn. This condition is browning and drying of leaf tips and edges. It can also cause the veins in the flesh of the leaf to turn yellow or darken.
• Leaves wilting or drooping: When your philodendron leaves start to wilt and droop, although you are careful of your watering habits (especially noticeable in recent transplants), this is a sure sign of a transplant shock.
• Leaves Dying: A surefire way to find out if your philodendron is suffering from transplant shock is if it has leaves that fall off from the slightest touch. This fragility shows the plant is dying, and you must act now.

How To Treat Transplant Shock

Sometimes, you can’t avoid transplant shock even with the utmost care. To a beginner gardener unfamiliar with it, transplant shock can bring you almost as much stress as it does to your philodendron.

If it happens, don’t panic, there are always ways to assist your plant baby in recovering from it. Here are some ways to help:

Be Mindful When Watering Your Philodendron

Although you might think that your philodendron needs a lot of water to recover from the transplant shock, you should take care. Although this seems counterintuitive, remember that it doesn’t do well in a wet environment.

Water it when needed rather than in regular intervals, and do so sparingly, directly above the roots.

The pot you transplant a philodendron to should have appropriately sized holes to allow excess water to pass through, and it would also be good to line the bottom with stones that will enable water to pass through more easily.

Prune the Philodendron

Pruning will make the root system’s job a bit easier. Since it carries the weight of recovery, pruning allows the plant to recover much more effortlessly if it has fewer leaves to feed.

Feel free to cut the long roots and prune the oldest stems by cutting in the place the stem meets the body of the plant. You can also prune the discolored leaves just above the node because once they start changing color, there is no turning back.

However, don’t remove more than 75% of the growth.

Avoid Using Fertilizers

Your philodendron needs time to adjust to its new environment and establish a new and effective root system. Adding fertilizers and other substances to the soil may harm your plant more than it helps.

When you fertilize your transplanted philodendron, the added nutrients will cause your plant to start new leaf growth. This new growth can take energy away from the plant establishing new root growth and causing your plant even further stress.

Many fertilizers have high nitrogen concentrations, which may burn your plant’s sensitive roots and even kill your philodendron. Instead, hold off fertilization and soil additions until your plant has established a solid and effective root system.

Have Patience While Your Philodendron Recovers

Recovery is a long and slow process. It can take up to two or three weeks, and with older or very stressed plants, up to two months. However long it takes, be tenacious, don’t give up, and trust that you are doing everything possible for your philodendron.

How To Prevent Transplant Shock

Philodendrons need to be transplanted every two years or at least when the roots start to emerge from the ground. The best time to do this is late spring or early summer.

You can remove the soil from the roots during transplanting and prune old and unnecessary roots. You should repot the plant in a larger container in loose soil with flowing drainage and firmly press the soil down. Water the philodendron after one to two days, and don’t add fertilizer for the first two weeks.

Here are ten tips to help you to avoid transplant shock:

• Avoid leaving the roots exposed for too long during the move, as this may cause them to dry out. Keeping the root system moist while handling it will help the plant re-establish itself faster in its new home.
• If the roots are soft, squishy, or damaged, remove them immediately because root rot makes your philodendron susceptible to bacteria and fungi. When removing the roots, ensure not to remove more than one-third of the root system.
• Use slightly acidic (pH 6 to 6.5) nutrient-rich soil high in organic matter. If you decide to add peat, use it in small amounts because it can easily become too compact and water-repellent, thus creating drainage problems.
• Repot the philodendron in a pot of appropriate size. Repotting in a pot that is too large will lead to too much soil for too little plant material. This placement can cause the soil to stay moist for a long time leading to roots not getting any air and rot developing.
• Use water-retaining materials for your pots. Plastic isn’t as pretty as terracotta, but it will keep the foliage watered better, especially if you keep it outside as you can in California or Florida, where philodendrons thrive all year round.
• Don’t plant the philodendron too low in the pot. Fill the pot with soil up to an inch (2.5 cm) from the top.
• Avoid repotting during the summer or, if there is no other way, try to do it on a colder, cloudy day or in the early morning when the temperatures are lower. Also, don’t report during the plant’s dormant period because it’s when no significant growth occurs. When you plant your philodendron at the wrong time, it makes the necessary growth of new roots and leaves a struggle for your plant.
• Position the philodendron in the same place it was before or in the same lighting and temperature conditions it had before repotting. Small changes such as repositioning can cause it to experience transplant shock, so try not to change the surroundings too much. Make sure it is in bright, indirect sunlight.
• Don’t forget that the philodendron is mildly toxic to humans. Use gloves while repotting, and avoid getting the sap in your eyes or grazes on your skin.
• If you plan to repot your philodendron outdoors, check if you live in the USDA plant hardiness zone 9 to 12, such as Florida and Southern California. Otherwise, keep it indoors as a house plant because it is a tropical plant that can’t survive temperatures lower than 55°F (13°C).

Conclusion

Transplant shock can happen to anyone, even the most experienced among us. Watching your beautifully vivid green leaves curl and die is horrible, but helping your philodendron survive will bring you the much-needed experience to prevent it from happening next time.

Even if the worst happens and your plant doesn’t survive, don’t let it stop you from trying again with a new exotic philodendron. Follow the steps described in the text, and don’t forget that prevention is better than resuscitation.

You may also like:

• Philodendron Leaves Not Unfurling
• Philodendron Birkin White Leaves Turning Brown
• Leaf Spot Disease Philodendron

Sophia

Hi! I’m Sophia, and I love plants – especially an expert in growing house plants. I stay in Chicago, United States of America, and through my blog and social media platforms, provide tips and tricks on how to grow healthy, vibrant plants indoors. Check out more here.

The post Philodendron Leaves Curling After Repotting [How To Treat] appeared first on HousePlantsInfo.com.